” Meat porters have already been shouldering carcasses and dodging barrows for several hours at Smithfields whloe-sale meat market in the heart of London. There has been a meat market at Smithfields in some form or another since the twelfth century, when Thomas, a Becket’s clerk recorded a ”smooth field” where every Friday there is a celebrated rendezvous of fine horses to be sold, and in another quarter are placed vendibles of the peasant, swine with their deep flanks, and cows and oxen of immense bulk.
Since then the cobbles have run with blood, not all of it animal. During the sixteenth century Smithfields became the place of public executions; In 1558, more than 200 persons were burned at the stake for their religious beliefs. ”
用處決的字眼描述不夠精準，確切來說是被 hanged, disemboweled, beheaded, and quartered.
嗯！倫敦的暗黑歷史要找機會來補修。
6:55 AM – TV BREAKFAST
” Pripan Singh arrives home from his job on the Heathrow Airport night shift in time to have breakfast with his sons, Gurginder and Ajip., before they leave for school. The Singhs, who came to Britain 16 years ago, live in Southall’s Golf links Estate where they, together with other Asian families living on the estate, are the target of continuous campaigns of racial harassment. their house has been stoned. When Pripan’s wife, Rashan, goes shopping, youths try to snatch her bags. Once, a bottle of urine was hurled through their front door. The two boys do not play outside because they are frightened of being attacked by the gangs of skinheads who prowl the estate. The family desperately wants to move. ”
” ‘Progressive Working Man’s Caterer’ reads the sign on the window of the Quality Chop House in Farrington Road and for 42 years owner/chef Eddy Enricho has been living up to the promise in the form of gargantuan breakfasts – as did his father before him. Eddy’s day begins long before the 6 am opening time when he arrives to prepare the pies and pastries. his first customers are night-shift workers and up-all-night revellers, followed by a succession of cloth cap working men, fleet Street reporters, city gents and, finally, young trendies attracted by the biggest breakfast in town – kippers, porridge, toast, bacon and eggs.”
讀到這裡，山姆大喊：The Quality Chop House! Have been wanting to take you there!
The process whereby the character of a poor urban area is changed by wealthier people moving in, improving housing, and attracting new businesses, often displacing current inhabitants in the process.
10 AM – EEL PIE
” The staff – and customer – off eel and pie sellers M. Manze in Tower Bridge Road, Bermondsey, take time out before the lunchtime rush. Once as ubiquitous as McDonald’s, London’s eel and pie shops, with their menu of jellied eels, displayed live in the window to guarantee freshness, meat pies and green ”liquor” sauce, provided working classes with cheap dietary staples. now less than a handful remain, mostly family businesses like this one. ”
” Fred Collins’ hardware store in Earlham Streer. Founded almost a century and a half ago by a member of the Collins family, its daunting interior is a chaos of ancient and overflowing stock, stacked it would appear, at random. After 56 years behind the counter, however, Fred Collins knows precisely where to find each item.”
”Stallholders on Camden Market look resigned to rather miserable mid-week takings. A maze of shops, barrows and stalls, the market, situated behind a lock on the Regent’s canal, has overtaken Portobello Road as trendy London’s favourite scavenging ground. ”
” The Last Lamp Lighter: Mr Bullard on his rounds lighting the way for the law clerks, barristers and judges of the Middle Temple. An employee of North Thames Gas, Mr Bullard is a gaslamp lighter – the last lamp lighter in London. His hours are totally flexible, ranging from three in the afternoon to late in the evening, depending upon when the sun sets. He likes his job even though, as he admits, it is a very solitary trade. ”
讀到2015年出版的某篇報導裡提及” 1,500 gas-powered lights, some up to 200 years old, continue to burn brightly in the capital, maintained by a five-man team. ” – Light brigade: carrying the torch for London’s last gas street lamps. (The Guardian)
” The Proms – Polish conductor Andrzej Panufnik conducts his own Sinfonia Votiva, a highly emotive work he composed in 1980 during the summer in which martial law was proclaimed in Poland. ”
The proms – ”Promenade concerts’Proms’ is short for Promenade concerts – informal and inexpensive concerts with an opportunity for Promenaders (‘Prommers’) to stand and listen. ” – (BBC)
這份傳統一年一次於盛夏展開，地點在面對著Hyde Park的The Royal Albert Hall，搭配BBC實況轉播，轉眼就這樣延續了150年！
或許不少人讀到這裡，會覺得：「天呀！對方真的會理妳嗎？」的確如此。我的愛牌端出制式性的回覆，表示免費退換貨都不是問題，句尾不忘補充 ”In 2020, 76% of the materials in our collection were sustainably sourced. We’ve already exceeded that in 2021. ”
💡Always question the brand’s credentials before investing.
So what does sustainable fashion actually mean
在瀏覽過數十種對於永續時尚的定義後，以下是我認為最完善的解釋：
More sustainable fashion can be defined as clothing, shoes, and accessories that are manufactured, marketed, and used in the most sustainable manner possible, taking into account both environmental and socio-economic aspects.
In practice, this implies continuous work to improve all stages of the product’s life cycle, from design, raw material production, manufacturing, transport, storage, marketing and final sale, to use, reuse, repair, remake and recycling of the product and its components.
From an environmental perspective, the aim should be to minimise any undesirable environmental effect of the product’s life cycle by:
(a) ensuring efficient and careful use of natural resources (water, energy, land, soil, animals, plants, biodiversity, ecosystems, etc);(b) selecting renewable energy sources (wind, solar, etc) at every stage, and (c) maximising repair, remake, reuse, and recycling of the product and its components.
From a socio-economic perspective, all stakeholders should work to improve present working conditions for workers on the field, in the factories, transportation chain, and stores, by aligning with good ethics, best practices and international codes of conduct.
In addition, fashion companies should contribute to encourage more sustainable consumption patterns, caring and washing practices, and overall attitudes to fashion.
Dr. Brismar, Green Strategy.
末端裡提到的consumption patterns是我覺得這個註解中，很貼心卻關鍵的補充。
💡This is exactly why fast fashion will never be sustainable.
回到H集團的評比。把我打醒的，是GOY網站裡特別針對勞工評鑑的這一段：Almost none of H&M’s supply chain is certified by labour standards which ensure worker health and safety, living wages, or other labour rights.
The most common method is chrome tanning and requires the hide to be placed in a chromium salt bath—which is highly toxic. When the remaining toxic water is disposed of, it can wreak havoc on aquatic ecosystems and even negatively impact human health. A better nontoxic option is vegetable tanning, an ancient practice that uses naturally derived plant chemicals to purify the hide; however, this is less common since it’s more expensive and requires special skill sets.
Leah Thomas, the good trade.
Real leather vs Vegan leather 無疑是個超級複雜的選擇題。以我的貼身經歷而言，我會更傾向購買前者，但賦予自己更嚴謹的消費原則。
Cue & Craving 為 Problem Phrase，像是口渴時會產生補充水分的慾望；Response & Reward為Solution phrase. 前者為因慾望而驅使的行為（也就是習慣的本身），後者則是完成後的心理生理上感到的獎賞。
The Four Laws of Behaviour Change
根據上述原理，Four Laws of Behaviour Change為貫穿整本書的關鍵framework，是建立好習慣與破除壞習慣的重點原則。
How to create a good Habit:
Make it obvious （Cue)
Make it attractive (Craving)
Make it easy (Response)
Make it satisfying (Reward)
除此之外，被我畫好幾次重點的是Habit Stacking.
The quickest way to build a new habit into your life is to stack it on top of a current habit.
‘’You probably have very strong habits and connections that you take for granted each day. For example, your brain is probably very efficient at remembering to take a shower each morning or to brew your morning cup of coffee or to open the blinds when the sun rises … or thousands of other daily habits. You can take advantage of these strong connections to build new habits.’’
‘’new habit should not feel like a challenge. The actions that follow can be challenging, but the first two minutes should be easy. What you want is a ‘’gateway habit’’ that naturally leads you down a more productive path.’’
Make it difficult – 在起床後的「兩分鐘內」不碰手機，而兩分鐘後，梳洗中的我從廁所特地出來拿手機的機率非常非常低。
Make it unattractive – 同上述，由於觀察到早晨使用手機的頻率，與全天工作注意力的分散有密切關係後，讓我對「滑手機」這個乍看無意識的動作變得更謹慎。
Make it unsatisfying – 當某種原因無法避免這個壞習慣與負面循環一再發生時，記錄當天心情是強迫自己正面面對的一種方式，過程雖不輕鬆但卻舒坦。
Habits & Identity
‘’The word identity was originally derived from theLatin words essentitas, which means being, and identidem, which means repeatedly. Your identity is literally your repeated beingness’’
‘’The key to mitigating these losses of identity is to redefine yourself such that you get to keep important aspects of your identity even if your particular role changes.’’
我上班時間相對早，日常約9:00進公司，典型的一天不能不提morning huddle – 早晨第一件事是全公司聚在一起，邊喝咖啡邊分享內部大小事，長度約20分鐘，形式上也非常隨性，有時用來首播廣告CF，有時則會討論嚴肅議題像Brexit，不變的是小小的聚會通常sets the tone for the day！
